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Shih Tzu Information
An Illustrated Guide on the correct AKC Conformation Standard can be found by clicking this link: http://www.shihtzu.org/Info/ill_guide/4.asp
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As no individual can possibly be
totally familiar with the quirks of every breed, here are some Shih Tzu
peculiarities you might like to share with your veterinarian.
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Courtesy of White, J., Your Shih Tzu and Your Vet, www.shihtzu.org, 2007 http://www.shihtzu.org/Articles/print.asp?ART_ID_NUM=28
Allergies
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Allergies
to Dogs…..Is the Shih Tzu the Breed for You? “I have allergies – will I be allergic to a Shih Tzu?” is a question I have begun to dread. It has come up time and time again in my 36 years as a breeder/exhibitor of Shih Tzu and also in my 25 plus years as a rescuer of this breed. I dread it because, unfortunately, it is a question that has no easy answer. Every person is different; in fact, even dogs of the same breed can affect an allergic person in varying degrees. I have also been informed as of late that a person’s allergy response to a puppy may worsen as the dog reaches adulthood. The best answer I can give someone who is planning to bring a Shih Tzu into their household but has had allergic reactions to other dogs is: You will not know for sure until you spend some time with a Shih Tzu. It is true that Shih Tzu, like other dogs who have hair instead of fur, shed less (a bit every day rather than huge quantities seasonally) and have less dander than most dogs. For this reason the Shih Tzu breed is classified as “hypo-allergenic.” But no dog is non-allergenic - not even a hairless breed - because a person could be allergic to the saliva or urine of a dog as well as the dander/fur. Ideally, the family member that has allergies should spend a full day or, even better, an overnight with a friend or relative’s Shih Tzu before you shop for that new Shih Tzu. Some people can tell within minutes if they are allergic to a particular animal; if the person is sure that they will know right away, then perhaps a visit to a breeder who has Shih Tzu but no other animals in the household would be a good idea. It is very important to determine before the visit there are no other animals, especially those with fur or hair, in the breeder’s house. Otherwise, you will not know for sure if the Shih Tzu or the other animal is causing the reaction, should there be one. An ethical breeder will of course accept return of a puppy whose owner turns out to be allergic, but that can be heart-wrenching for the buyer as well as the puppy. I therefore strongly recommend that you try to make the determination of whether you can live with a Shih Tzu before bringing one home. This is especially important where children are involved. As a rescue representative, I am often asked to give advice to people who have found that they are allergic to their Shih Tzu over time, and in cases where the owner just could not bear the thought of giving up the family pet. Unfortunately, most face an uphill battle. While it may be possible to improve the situation with the following measures you can rarely affect a cure. I offer the following list of things to try: 1. Although the breed’s flowing coat is a thing of beauty, people with allergies are advised to keep your pet Shih Tzu’s coat clipped regularly to as short as possible. This is not so much because less hair means less dander, but because it is just easier to keep the dog very clean, and a clean dog will be less bothersome to the allergic person. After giving this advice I say a little prayer that one of these measures, or a combination thereof, will keep a dog from having to be removed from the home. Unfortunately, it has been my experience that a number of people just cannot live with a dog of any breed, in spite of how much they would like to. Of those people I ask the following: If you must give up your Shih Tzu please make every attempt to return him or her to the breeder, and if that is not possible, contact a local Shih Tzu rescue representative so that an appropriate home can be found. Your Shih Tzu deserves to have a suitable new home where he will be loved as much as he was with you. Courtesy of http://www.shihtzu.org/Articles/print.asp?ART_ID_NUM=9 |
Hypoglycemia - Low Blood Sugar
| Purchase Nutri-Cal from your
vets office or pet supply store
Hypoglycemia is a condition that can occur in all toy breeds and large breeds as well. If over stressed, malnourished, over excited, an onset of hypoglycemia can occur and w/o warning. It is imperative that you give your new puppy a finger tip full of Nutri-Cal immediately applied to the upper gum. Preventative Care - Until your new puppy reaches 3 + lbs and sometimes more give a fingertip of Nutri-Cal at night. If you work during the day, apply the same amount first thing in the morning. Leave food and water readily available for your new pup - day and night until the puppy is about 4 months old or well over 3 lbs. After that you may feed morning, noon, and night. Warning, don't give too much Nutri-Cal as it can pose a choking hazard as well as high blood sugar. Follow the directions on the label. Signs of Hypoglycemia are: lethargic, jerky, fatigue, coma type appearance, stiff, cold to touch but still breathing. ***Call your vet or an 24 hr emergency vet immediately to let them know what is going on (for assistance) Feed high quality - small bite dry puppy food, you may add Esilibic Puppy Formula by following directions on label to food to make wet. Change food often, clean food and water dishes often at minimum once a day.
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Acceptable Surgical Procedures
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Procedures (October 1993 AKC Board meeting) The Board approved the publication of a list of procedures that, undertaken to restore the health of a dog, would not in and of themselves affect a dog's show eligibility. Such procedures would include but not be limited to: 1. The repair of broken legs, even if such procedures involve the insertion of pins, plates or wires. 2. The removal of damaged cartilage. 3. The repair of ligaments that have ruptured or been torn. 4. Caesarean sections. 5. The repair of umbilical hernias. 6. The removal of tumors or cysts. 7. Gastric torsion/bloat surgery. 8. Splenic torsion surgery. 9. Tonsillectomy. 10. Correction of "Cherry Eye" (which involves the gland of the nictitating membrane). 11. Debarking. 12. The removal of dewclaws if a regular practice in the breed. |
Courtesy of American Kennel Club, Dog Show Policies, http://www.akc.org/rules/policymanual.cfm?page=5, 2007
Shih Tzu Grooming
Bath once weekly with a quality dog shampoo, then condition w/Pantene or Infusium Conditioner. Also, put leave on conditioner in coat. At the time of bathing, I use ear cleanser and/or ear mite preventative treatments. Brush/Comb hair out completely, especially on and beneath ears, collar, tail, etc., blow dry. Make certain to get any eye discharge, stuck on the hair, beneath the eye, combed away from the eye simply by making certain the fur around the eye/muzzle area is wet and then comb through w/thinner end of comb to ensure all eye discharge is removed.
Also use an eye wash once a week or more if needed.
A must ~ Brush and Comb out at least every other day to avoid matting of coat.
Use luke warm water when bathing to prevent the undercoat letting loose to early.
During the time that the undercoat is blowing or letting loose, you may use a non-staining oil to help loosen any mats or undercoat that may be letting loose. Leave on for a couple hours wash away w/mild shampoo and then condition coat. Brush/Comb Coat as usual.
Once a month use a quality flea/tick/mite treatment as a preventative measure.
Once a month bath w/flea/tick shampoo during the flea/tick season.
Keep ears clean and dry at all times
Additionally, always condition the coat to prevent the skin from drying out as well.
Trim nails, hair under paws, and round off the hair around the paws to shape it nicely.
Take your pup to the Groomer. It's a treat for them and gives them a chance to socialize.
White Coats or white muzzle (eye staining)
This can be a little tricky as I have found. There are many products on the market that I have found do not work and some that do a little bit.
For white coats, use a whitening shampoo. http://www.cherrybrook.com offers a product called White Lightning - this works very well, also try Hartz/Sergeants Flea Shampoo (the green bottle) - works well on dingy white coats.
For beneath the eye and muzzle area - there a gel products that will lighten the stained area only if used daily. They must be removed and then conditioned afterwards.
*Do Not Ever use Bleach as this will dissolve the hair shaft completely!!!
Note: Different Coat Types such as a porous hair shaft or a non porous hair shaft will have different effects. This is why conditioning of the hair is a necessity. A porous hair shaft allows stains in whereas a non porous hair shaft will resist staining.
Staining is typically caused by a red yeast or a bacteria on the hair itself. When mixed w/fluid from the eyes it turns red.
Boric acid is thought to work well to combat this type of staining as it destroys the yeast/bacteria. As long is the mixture is correct it should be effective. 1 part boric acid powder, 1 part cornstarch, water or hydrogen peroxide. 10% hydrogen peroxide is recommended by most however seems a bit harsh. Typical hydrogen peroxide comes in a 3 % volume. Make paste, comb on stained fur, let set 5-10 minutes, wash out completely, condition, and dry thoroughly. Make certain to not get any of this mixture into the eyes or mucous membranes on the nose or mouth. Comb hair away from the eyes, nose, and mouth if at all possible.
Use Mink Oil to replenish the coat/condition the coat.
For long haired coats - Use a dematter and a metal comb found at pet smart
Use a water bottle instead of a drinking bowl
Use a non staining dry food with no dyes
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© 2007, Rejon's Shih Tzus |